Urban Fashion Photography

Street-style photography became popular in the 70s, pioneered by New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, but it wasn’t until the mid nighties that it really gained recognition. Since then, its explosion has been fairly swift, with hugely influential blogs such as The Sartorialist launching in 2005 and photographers such as Yvan Rodic, Tommy Ton and Philip Oh being commissioned to photograph street style for the glossies, ie magazines.

I met Bill Cunningham while I was employed at Women’s Wear Daily in the 1990’s. He really set the tone as to capturing with his camera what women were wearing on an everyday basis in the urban jungle of Manhattan. Women’s Wear Daily followed suit with their column,  “What They Are Wearing”, photographing not only people on the street of New York City but across the United States at music festivals, fashion shows abroad and around the world. Mr. Cunningham always said let the clothes speak for themselves, including the shoes and never be rude to your subject. Great advice for a rookie urban fashion photographer.

For a long time, editorial photography and street-style photography happily co-existed. Street style used to be about documenting real fashion – it was meant to be alternative to magazine fashion. But then it started to require shooting the kinds of people the readers of fashion publications were interested in, and that turned out to be more the insiders than everyday people. You have to make sure the clothes do not get lost with your background. Too many lines, graphics or colors can swallow your model, outfit and editorial. Motion is a fun aspect to urban fashion photography. Having your model move adds an added layer and feel to the shoot. Use an unexpected location for your images. I love playing with contrasts. I photographed swimwear in an empty bodega and used one of the windows to showcase a particular bathing suit and pose. Use available light to add to your images. Grainy photography for urban fashion is really awesome. It puts an edgy element to your work. I often use overhead lights for outdoor urban fashion at twilight to add mood to my story. People on the street can be your inspiration for a urban fashion spread. We live in one of the most colorful places in the world where fashion is taken seriously by some. Take a look around you and notice what your fellow New Yorkers or tourists walk around in. It may surprise you.

(C)Lisa Ramsay 2015